The walk from Xunqueira to Ourense was well signposted but through an urban landscape and industrial estates.  Ourense is a beautiful and ancient city, with many fine buildings and a working Roman baths.  It certainly deserves more than our overnight inspection.  We left in driving rain, which followed us the whole way to Santiago.

In Santiago, I stayed in the Seminario Mayor.  At 23€ per night including breakfast, it was my most expensive lodging so far.  However, it is situated a few metres from the cathedral, and with the constant wet weather, well worth it, for the convenience.

Santiago is a wonderful city, but it is clear that the huge baroque churches are now museums or tourist attractions, rather than places of worship.  They certainly meant nothing to me, compared to my experiences on the Meseta, welcoming the sun in the morning and living in the moment.

Walking the Via de Plata, on the old Roman road, some 1000 kilometres, almost the length of Spain, has been a lifetime experience for me.  It is difficult and should not be undertaken lightly, however, it is well worth every step.