I reached Villafranca about 3 and stopped at the first albergue on the old road coming into town – Albergue Turístico,  Las Caballeras,  €13 including a grandstand breakfast.  It opened in August this year and is very neat and clean with kitchen,  laundry,  lounge,  hot showers and hitec bunk beds.  The hospitalaria is called Rosaria and is very thoughtful and caring.   She lives in the house below with her son. Philippe (a policeman) and her grandson.

I had the place to myself for a while but then, a footsore Brazilian called Julian arrived.  Later, the family called up for a visit.  Rosaria told us the sad story of how her young husband had died of AIDS contracted during a blood transfusion in La Paz Hospital,  Madrid, in the 1980’s.  However,  her son Philippe was fit and well and ran the Camino with a team-the local sport.   His son, also Philippe,  was celebrating his eigth birthday and looked up briefly from his presents to acknowledge our congratulations (¡felicidades!).  He is a member of the junior running team.

After they left, I introduced Julian to John Ross’s fine bottle of red – they were happy to meet. We then started to put the world to rights.  Brazil, it turns out.  is a very dangerous country where you can get shot outside your front door for your  small change.  The government has little intention and less ability to stop the destruction of the rain forest and turns a blind eye to global warming.  Her in Extremadura, we should be the rainy season, getting ready for planting in the spring.   Instead, it is hot and dry with the soil turning to dust.   It makes Ireland look like a green and pleasant land.