Joe and I were going to find it difficult to top our experience on Skellig Michael but Great Blasket came very close.  Great Blasket has been occupied from pre-history and it overlooks the location where a number of the Spanish Armada ships were wrecked. A small farming and fishing community exceeded a population of 150 in the early 20th century but then dwindled to a small number when the island was vacated in 1953. The old village above the Trá Bán (White Strand) is situated on the north-eastern side of the island, facing the mainland and Slea Head.

We organized the boat trip and a two-day stay on the island through Billy and Alice on https://www.greatblasketisland.net and I couldn’t fault the experience.  We left from Dingle Harbour in Billy’s boat the Peig Sayers.  Billy is not only a very friendly guy and an expert boatman but also a fund of local knowledge.  On the trip to the island, he introduced us to Fungi the dolphin and he was able to bring the boat close to the cliffs to explain many local and geological features.

When we reached the island we were delighted to find that we were to stay in Peig Sayers house.  Now, Great Blasket isn’t all about Peig Sayers, in fact, the island has produced many renowned writers; Tomás Ó Criomhthain, Peig Sayers, Muiris Ó Súilleabháin, Eibhlis Ní Shúilleabháin, Seán Ó Criomhthain, Máire Ní Ghuithín.  This embarrassment of creativity and literary wealth has to be a testament to the inspirational environment to be found on this tiny piece of earth.  However, since you are staying in her house it’s worth doing a bit of research on Peig as a way of getting in touch with local history and culture.

Peig, although not a native, lived on the island from 1892 to 1942.  She was a legendary story teller and recorded her biography as well as hundreds of ancient legends, ghost stories, and folk tales.  As many a student of the Irish language will attest, she comes across as a gloomy old gal but maybe she had just cause, life was tough back in the day.  You also get the impression that she lived in black and white as we are used to her staring out at us from old photographs. However, as Joe and I sat outside her house we realized that she lived in glorious Technicolor under massive skies. The view must have given her much joy and many uplifting moments, although not altogether obvious in her work.  It’s like looking at a map of another world with the smaller Blaskets in the foreground, the mainland of Ireland off to the right and the majestic and mysterious Skelligs on the horizon.

The accommodation is hostel style with no electricity or hot water.  If you are expecting fresh fluffy towels and a mint or your pillow every night, then this is not for you. However, if you enjoy that thrill of excitement at the chance to tap into another world and, maybe, find out something about yourself then this is a must.

Walking on the island is a great pleasure.  I am sure there are many dark days during the winter but while Joe and I were there the light was not only shimmering but constantly changing making every walk a fresh adventure and Great Blasket a very special place.

 

 

 

Source: Dan and Joe’s Tour of the Wild, Wild West-Skellig Michael

Skellig Michael is not only the most westerly point in Europe but it is also a very special place, a place apart.  In the 6th century, monks came here to what was the very edge of their  world and then started building upwards into the heavens, in search of reality. They built a monastery on a narrow ledge 160 meters above sea level.

There are two islands Skellig Michael and Little Skellig.  As you approach,  they have an otherworldly appearance, the appearance of maybe an alien spaceship or at least something that has dropped out of the sky rather than part of the natural landscape.

The Skelligs had been on my bucket list for some time and I realized that boats left from Valentia Island.  However, I had always understood that space was limited, the trip was very weather dependent and had to be booked well in advance.  So we went to the tourist center on Valentia that morning with the intention of taking a boat trip around the islands without landing.  We had been told that this was just as interesting but believe me it is not, not even close.  However, it appears that hotels block book spaces on the boats for their guests but they regularly fail to turn up.  Destiny played a hand that morning and we were offered two places on the first boat.

A journey in a small boat, in the wild Atlantic, is exciting enough but when you reach the tiny jetty you realize that every piece of level ground and every foothold, including the one thousand and more stone steps up to the monastery with its bee hive cells, were carved out by the monks.

As you ascend the steps, you become aware of the abundant bird life, especially the puffins who are so plentiful and tame, it is difficult not to trip over them.

Having reached the monastery, you lose sight of the boats, the harbour and the 21st century.  It’s hard to believe that nothing remains of those men who lived here in splendid isolation for 6 centuries.  Maybe, today they are still there in spirit and enjoy mingling with the tourists.

A visit to the Skelligs is a life experience.  Whether or not those monks from ancient times walk amongst the visitors today,  they have left behind something incredible, an example of commitment to an ideal which will last forever.

 

 

Source: Joe and Dan’s Tour of the Wild, Wild West

Joe and I have been best friends since we met at school in the dark and troubled days of seventies Belfast. We had made several trips around Ireland as teenagers and, many, many moons later decided to recreate the experience with a little island hopping in the wild, wild west.

We started our trip with two nights camping at Mannix Point, Cahirciveen, in the Ring of Kerry, on the Wild Atlantic Way. http://www.campinginkerry.com/  Mannix Point claims to be the most beautiful camping/caravan/motor home site in Ireland and I think that the claim is well justified.  It has a fabulous location, the facilities are excellent and the sunsets are incredible.  It lies within an easy walking distance of the bustling little town of Cahirsiveen.  Although a few empty shops in the main street tell us of tough times, Cahirsiveen is a charming lively place where unusually enough, the Catholic church is named after the local hero Daniel O Connell.

Mannix Point is within a short drive of Valentia Island. htttp://www.theringofkerry.com/valentia-island

Valentia Island, (strictly speaking it’s no longer an island as it was connected to the mainland by a bridge in 1971). It, while small in size (approx 12km x 5km) contains a number of interesting sites which when combined with the location makes it a place well worth visiting.  The island itself consists of two small villages Knightstown & Chapel town. Roads on the island tend to be narrow even by Kerry standards and some of the sights to the north of the island (lighthouse etc) are best accessed on foot. The cliff walk and the walk to the old lighthouse give views which are second to none.

However, most tantalising for me was the fact that the boat to Skellig Michael leaves from the tourist centre on Valentia.   Skellig Michael has always been very high on my bucket list and I spent our second night under canvas not only snoring, so I am informed but also dreaming of Skellig Michael, the end of the world.