Before leaving Laza we explored the dark and mysterious romanesque  church and cloister. It was dripping with ancient tombs.

It was another beautiful walk, well signposted, along minor roads, through scenery, heavy and green, with a constant threat of rain in the background, it was Galicia.

We passed through tiny villages full of huge stone houses, most of them empty and collapsing back into nature.  Little ladies flitted around, too shy to speak to us, but we got the occasional, Buen Camino!  Xosé, Alberto, and the horses caught us up, walked alongside and then dropped back, in turn, all the while chatting in Galician.  In Xunqueira, there was a purpose built hostel, and  bars and shops in the village.