The walk into Salamanca from the surrounding hills, must be one of the most beautiful parts of this Camino. The alberge is near the cathedral, it is large, comfortable, and very well organised.

As soon as we had settled in, we made for the Taberna Celta, on the advice of Gerald Kelly, in his excellent guide , the Via de Plata.  We received a very warm welcome, and were plied with, not only free food and drink, but also tales of the Camino, for most of the afternoon, by the owner, Caesar,  and his friends.

Caesar told us that at the last ice age many people came to the Iberian Peninsula in advance of the ice, bringing with them their ancient knowledge. The first caminos were made by the Celtiberians, along ley lines or lines of energy,  to Finisterra, to worship the sun, at the end of the world (Finisterra) .

He invited us back next evening to savour ‘chorizo del enfierno ‘, washed down with aguardiemte.