To reach I had heard a lot about Padre Blas, the ‘Spirit of the Via de la Plata’ , and was determined to call and speak to him, in the alberge in Fuenterroble.  When I reached the alberge, it appeared to be deserted, although there was a huge log fire burning in the grate, in what I assumed was , the Padre’s study.

I called out, and a figure appeared from the gloom.  This was Manolo, the hospitalario, who immediately launched into a monologue concerning his antecedents.  I had no idea at the time, but this is a normal introduction for men from small, isolated villages in Spain.  I assumed he was insane.  Manolo had something important to tell me about the camino, but he had to come at it from the distance of several generations.  Padre Blas, on the other hand was taciturn.  He was an old man now, and maybe, the ‘Spirit of the Camino’ had said all he needed to say, or, maybe, like Manolo, he realized that I wasn’t ready for more.

I left early the next morning to tackle ‘ El Pico de La Dueña.  It was freezing cold, with a bitter north wind.  There was nothing but 26 kilometers of Roman road between Fuenterroble and the next village, San Pedro de Rozados.