The walk from Villafranca to Torremejía was a long and dusty 29 kilometres but under glorious blue skies.  Those of the fair skin take care, there is no shade and there are no villages in between, carrying food water is essential.

Torremejía has a touch of the wild west about it.  The main street is very broad, with a real jumble of architecture and the side streets shoot off at right angles, through long lines of anonymous white houses. However, everyone is very friendly and ready to help, if needed. It is a hard-working farming community.

When I arrived, it was Friday night and all were  out to have a good time – with the best  wine at 70 cents a glass who could blame them.  They yelled at each other up and down the bars, in ,what to me, was totally unintelligible Spanish and the caic was mighty.  However, don’t let them fool you, these people have great respect for peregrinos. They were really impressed to hear that I had come all the way from Ireland or, as they knew it, the land of constant drizzle.

I stayed in the Albergue Turístico Municipal.  This is one of the government run hostals, some are good and some are very basic.  However, they all have bunk beds, hot showers, laundry, cooking facilities, and Wi-Fi and they are not expensive, perfect for the pilgrim on a budget.  This one is a beautiful and ancient building beside the Catholic church, at the end of town.  It costs €10 to stay for a night and €8 for a meal in the impressive dining room.

As I said, it is across the way from equally ancient Catholic church.  I noticed a lot of people going to evening mass.  Nowadays in Spain, this is far from the norm.  There is usually a gaggle of six to eight old ladies who spread themselves about, cat fashion, to give a clever impression of fullness.  Tonight was a different story.  It was a funeral mass and respects had to be paid.  At the end of mass, the bereaved family sat in front of the altar and everyone filed past.  They seemed surprised to see me, maybe not expecting people to travel so far.  However, I bowed ( as is the custom), they nodded ( as is the custom), and we all moved on with our lives.  A touching and charming way to offer condolencees and I  would expect nothing less from these sincere and genuine people.